When and how to transplant currants to a new place

When to transplant currants

In one place, currants can grow without any problems for about 10-15 years. Over time, the soil under the bushes becomes poorer, they begin to lack nutrients, even despite regular feeding. From this, the berries become smaller, fruiting becomes scarce, currants often get sick and develop poorly. A transplant will help invigorate the plant and give it new strength. Also, sometimes the shrub is transferred to a new place in connection with the redevelopment of the site.

The procedure can be carried out in the spring, when the snow has melted and the soil has thawed enough to dig a bush without any extra effort. Try to cope with the task while the buds on the branches are sleeping and have not yet begun to swell. In warm regions, the right time falls on March, in the middle lane - on April, in a cold climate - on May.

In exceptional cases, currants can be transplant and summer after harvest. However, the plant will experience a lot of stress and take root poorly in a new place due to heat and lack of moisture. Therefore, if time suffers, transfer all manipulations to autumn or spring.

At the end of the season, the currant itself will give a signal of readiness for transplantation: the bush will completely shed its leaves. From this moment on, you can deal with his “moving” to another site in garden and vegetable garden. It is advisable not to delay the procedure and carry it out 3-4 weeks before the arrival of stable frosts. In the northern regions, currant transplantation is planned around September, in the middle lane - in mid-September - mid-October, in the southern climate - in October-November.

How to choose a place for transplanting currants

The area where red, white and yellow currants grow should be as light and sunny as possible. But black can be placed in light partial shade. Keep in mind that berry bushes grow quite strongly in breadth, so if you want to transplant several copies, then lay between them a distance of at least 2–3 m. At such a distance, they will not interfere with each other as development. In addition, in too dense planting, plants suffer from poor ventilation and are more often affected. diseases and pests.

If there are trees and other tall plants nearby the planned berry plant, consider whether they will begin to cast a dense shadow over the currants over the years. Perhaps, in this case, you will have to find a site where there will be no potential competition for a place in the sun.

How to dig currants for transplanting

Step back from the bush about 30-40 cm and dig it from all sides to the depth of the shovel bayonet. One way or another, the roots will be damaged in the process, but this is not scary.

Then dig an earthen ball from below, chopping off the roots until you can completely remove the bush from the ground.

How to transplant currants to a new place

Dig a planting hole about 45–55 cm deep. Its diameter should be about 10–15 cm larger than the size of the root system of the seedling. Fill the hole about halfway with compost or rotted manure. Add 150 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium sulfate and 100 g of wood ash. Mix all ingredients thoroughly.

Place the currant in the center of the planting hole. Make sure that the root neck (the junction of the roots and stems) is flush with the ground in the area. If necessary, add soil to the bottom of the hole or remove the excess layer.

Fill all the voids around the roots of the currant with soil. Then trample the ground near the bush to properly compact it.

Water generously currant. Under the bush you need to pour about 10-12 liters of water.

How to care for currants after transplantation

In the first year after moving to a new place, currants will not require additional top dressing. The bushes will have enough food laid in the pit when planting.

All plant care will consist of regular watering. Twice a week, moisten the bush with 20-30 liters of water, directing it under the root, and in the heat, do it every other day. With the approach of frost at the end of the season, watering should be stopped.