How to tie up tomatoes in a greenhouse and open field

Why tie tomatoes

Tall varieties of tomatoes can stretch up to two meters. But lower tomatoes also need support, because:

• The stems of tied plants will not bend or break under the weight of the fruit or in inclement weather.
• In a vertical position, the plants and fruits on them receive more light, which means they develop better.
• Tied bushes are easier to care for: water, loosen and fertilize.
• Ripening fruits do not come into contact with the ground, so they are less susceptible to diseases and pest attacks.
• From the bushes it is easier and faster to harvest.

When to tie tomatoes

For the whole season, 2-6 garters will be needed, it all depends on the height and variety. The first time to attach plants to a support is 2–3 weeks after planting seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse. Do not delay the procedure so that the bushes do not begin to lean or collapse.

Then proceed as the bushes grow. A new garter will be needed every time the bush reaches a height of about 50 cm or more and begins to slope. Try not to part, there is not much sense in this.

How to properly tie tomatoes

Follow a few simple rules. This will help you get great results.

• Choose supports that are at least 30 cm taller than a mature tomato plant. If the stakes are short and have to be changed over time, there is a risk of injuring the plant.
• Use 2-3 cm wide fabric strips or twine for tying. It is better to exclude fishing line, thread or other materials that are too thin, they can damage the trunks. You can also use a special tapener device, that is, a stapler for tying plants.

Another option is special clips. First, the twine is fixed in them, and after that the whole structure is put on the stem.

• Don't overtighten the garter, leave room for growth. When attaching the twine to the stem, use a loose loop whenever possible. It is especially good because it does not injure the plant. Wrap the twine around the stem so that one end is short, about 15 cm. Place the short end over the long end of the twine and tuck under it. On the right you get a small loop, into it and draw the short end. Tighten not too tight.

• Large brushes with fruits can be additionally tied up or fixed on hooks.

How to tie tomatoes to stakes

Near each bush, install a wooden stake, metal rod or other structure. For low and medium-sized varieties, choose a support about 30 cm higher than an adult bush, and for tall ones - up to 2.5 m.

Install stakes 10–12 cm from the stem to lessen injury to the roots. For stability, deepen into the ground by 30 centimeters or even more. The higher the bush, the more securely it is necessary to fix the stake, otherwise the whole structure may collapse.

How to tie tomatoes vertically

On both sides of the bed, install wooden or metal posts about 2.5 m high. Between them, pull the wire or twine tightly at a height of about 2 meters.

Cut off approximately 2.5 m of twine. Tie one end around the very bottom of the bush and secure with a regular knot, but not too tight. The alternative is a free loop. You can also attach the twine not to the plant itself, but to a peg, hook or other structure driven in nearby.

Now wrap the twine around the stem along the entire height and secure the other end to the rope stretched at the top. Wrap around the tomato stem regularly as it grows.

In the greenhouse, you can attach the garter directly to its structure.

How to tie tomatoes horizontally

Install two posts at both ends of the bed. Between them, stretch the "crossbars" of twine or rope. Do the first at a distance of about 25-35 cm from the ground, and then continue at the same interval to the very top. Individually tie tomato bushes to each "crossbar". As the stems grow, keep fixing them.

To make the structure more stable, you can additionally install several more vertical posts with steps of a meter and a half or arcs that will connect two parallel beds and serve as a support for plants on them both.

And another way of horizontal tying. To begin with, also install one main support at both ends of the beds and additional ones every meter and a half. Take columns with a diameter of at least 3 cm so that they do not break under the weight of the bushes and crops.

When it's time for the first garter, tie the twine firmly to a post on one side of the bed. After the snake, stretch between the bushes: for the first plant, pass the thread on one side, and for the second - on the other, just wrap it around the additional supports. When you reach the post at the other end of the bed, wrap the twine around it several times and pull the twine in the opposite direction. This time go around the bushes with a thread in a different order. As a result, you will get a row of tomatoes, in which each bush is between two threads.

As the planting grows by 20–30 cm, repeat this procedure. This simple and quick option is well suited even for large beds.

How to tie tomatoes to a net

Install two supports and stretch the coarse mesh for plants between the two rows of plantings. If the bed is long and the mesh sags, make a few more additional supports at a distance of a meter.

Guide the tomatoes into the net and pull them through the cells, or secure the plants with clips and other handy tools.

Repeat several times as you grow.