Chef Konstantin Ivlev, "Regional cooks do not have enough steel egg"
Workplaces / / December 27, 2019
Konstantin Ivlev - Chef and Founder Ivlev Group, which is engaged in the rebranding and the creation of new restaurants across the country. But not known for his signature recipes as well as the lead in the "at loggerheads" channel "Friday": Ivlev travels to provincial cafe brawl with local staff, beats plates, and in the finale completely changes the concept institutions. For rigid nature of the boss, and a loud voice even called Russian Gordon Ramsay.
Layfhaker talked and thunderstorms regional cuisines and found that distinguishes the true chief of the amateur, what a puncture most restaurateurs Russia and what one can learn from the chief cook.
Konstantin Ivlev
Chef and host of "at loggerheads".
"Rather a good base budding chefs in Russia are naphthalene tuhlets"
- You said that 18 years did not love to cook. What is the reason?
- I had no craving for cooking. My mom is insanely delicious cooking, so I have always liked to eat, but to cook - no. The only thing that I could do as a teenager - cut a piece of sausage doctoral or open a jar of sprats. Periodically, when I bully my mother to put me in the kitchen and forced to help her, but it did not dawn on me no talent.
- Nevertheless, you learn to cook it went. Why?
- I'm not in high school, so I could not even dream about the institute - I waited only vocational school. In Beskudnikovo where I grew up, there were three options: medical, avtoslesarnoe & Cook. Most friends were in the final, so I push my way back. In addition, we had an argument with a friend on a box of port that I finish my studies. As a result, he graduated from the vocational school with honors chefs fifth grade, although the school was Losers. However, no pleasure from the study is still not received. I was just having fun, that the textbook were cooking the same recipes, which my mother cooked.
- Heard that affected not only the drawer port, but the instruction of a father.
- My father has influenced my decision very powerfully. I have been gouging, I was of the side of the hand, I did not understand what I wanted to do. In the late 1980s the country smell of fried, so it slowly went mad: stolen and sold. I took part in it, but he knew that the future of such cases is not. Then Dad said to me:
Carelessness - it interesting, but if you want to be cool dude, then be engaged in the same business. Go to the cook. When any government people will want to have. If the head is in place, I always stay at a piece of bread.
I agreed, and after the army realized that I really like cooking. In 1993 came the restaurant revolution. Her point was that babishchy in gauze crowns of catering have sunk into oblivion. We began to open up cooperative ventures with foreigners. At the same time came the first cool restaurant "Sadko Arcade". I was there to work as a cook in the usual and saw that there were not only the cabbage soup and borschtBut also other dishes. Meat, as it turns out, can be fresh and roasted seven different ways, not only to the sole condition. Tryahanulo me, and I realized that I like to cook.
- You say that to learn to cook is meaningless in Russia: to become a good specialist will not work. There anything that you learned from the vocational school and apply to work up to now?
- No dick out, I could not endure. They showed me what sovdepovskaya kitchen and taught shred - that's it. Unfortunately, the educational system, related to professional cooking, is still based on the old textbooks. Instead, a good base budding chefs in Russia are naphthalene tuhlets. In my opinion, there is no single institution or college, which would give young people a boost. Worthy of respect unless the Soviet confectionery school.
- After graduating from college, you do not become a chef once. Which allowed to become Konstantin Ivlev, which we know now?
- The key came when I caught a buzz in "Sadko Arcade". I realized that for the toque business future, and decided to work with triple force, with no matter whether the chief was looking at me.
With the heads of all it was not easy. I yard guy, and I did not like that the bosses insult and verbally humiliate me. I wondered why they quarrel, and quickly realized that he moron and do everything with a stick. I am a lazy person, my wedge needed to knock out a wedge: stupid plow, not to be lazy and learn something. I did.
Soviet times, it was quite hard, because people lived in a solid gray mass. I was engaged in that interesting to me, and not someone else. If all of a hurry to get away from work quickly, I stayed. When completed the work in the shop, I asked the boss, how to help the other. I subscribed to not porno magazines and culinary. In general, he developed as he could.
"If you're a wimp, then everything collapses and turns into a sad shit"
- As today is your standard working day?
- I get up and go in for sports - swimming and then going to the office to Ivlev Group together a team to distribute the case for primary and secondary. We are engaged in consulting - open and rebrendiruem institutions on udalonke. Right now I'm going to a meeting, where we will be 6:00 to discuss our next steps in the months ahead. In addition to the classic work, I have been still and TV: rent program "at loggerheads" in the Russian regions.
My days are different, so it is impossible to allocate the standard. If you get tired, I can sit on the couch or on a plane to fly on vacation in another country. I do not live like most people, so I can call myself lucky.
- How does workplace Konstantin Ivlev?
- It is always changing: at one time the kitchen, and in another - the set. Own office I was only once in my life, but now it is not necessary to me: yesterday I was the first time for the year came to the office and just sat on the first available spot. As a rule, I discuss issues in restaurants. We are talking about food, so, of course, I want to eat. So why go far?
If talking about the kitchen, I'm always on hand - the place where the hang checks and gather food, to give it the hall. With great pleasure I occupy this position, and cook with their chefs, recharge energy and teach how to do well.
- You travel a lot around the country and many are criticizing other people's jobs. What is not so do most restaurateurs Russia?
- Unfortunately, they do not understand that the profits they bring no porcelain bowls for big money and a kitchen. Even steep restaurateurs make the workplace a little cooks, and hall - large. As a result, the restaurant turns into Armenian mausoleum, and storage and technical rooms are tiny. This is one of the reasons why the chefs can not cope with the classic restaurant timing and quality to serve the guest.
- What is missing chefs in the province?
- Regional cooks do not have enough steel eggs. You have to be good cook and a real man, if you want to place in the profession. Even in my current status constantly have to prove that I am worthy. Starting a new project, I always arrange a tasting for partners. It is important to understand that love, and that - no. I is not jarred, but have the experience and status. I cook for others is appreciated.
Regional chefs often say that Muscovites still awesome, but you can not even imagine how the sweat and blood we have earned this position. In 1996, I was making pastry tins of cans. We were arguing, swearing, dismissed and achieved what they wanted. I do believe that the stability and character - important features for the chief. If you're a weakling who can not defend their point of view, everything collapses and turns into a sad shit. Restaurants in the regions it is now such.
In their programs, I often get a bad meal or notice that the products are stored properly. Then I ask the boss: "What are you doing? You're a criminal, "and the person responsible -" And everything here is so much more I'll go, "If you see that the owners do not? ready to invest in the establishment and do not want to understand you, then go out on the dick and settles in another place simple chef. Sometimes you have to take a step back, then to move forward. Instead, regional chiefs are accomplices in the crime. Their eggs are transformed into quail and shriveled. It is not men, but male substance.
"I need the same powerful people like me. Melancholic quickly disappear from my kitchen "
- For the emotionality and impulsivity have often called Russian Gordon Ramsay. Do you consider yourself a man conflict?
- I am a non-confrontational, but very meticulous in all that relates to the work. I have always clearly stated its position and not ashamed of it.
Emotion and cruelty inherent in honest people. We have such people that otherwise may be difficult to convey the idea.
I studied a lot and I know that the business model, which I advocate, is successful. If people do not understand, then I begin to deliver information as happened in Russia: a whip or carrot. You can say one time, and people will hear, and sometimes you need to snap once, and then the people shake.
- When was the last time yelling at cooks in your own kitchen?
- It seems that about three weeks ago. The problem is that many are confused emotions with the Oromo. Emotion - this is the human condition, which is not indifferent to what is happening. We are working on a name, and then it works for us. It's a shame when you're making strides, and then comes some asshole and starts to go crazy and ruin your reputation.
The most horrifying thing in this situation is that he misunderstood his actions. You ask: "Why did you do that?" And he replies, "I do not know." Then you wake up emotions, and you raise your voice.
It's only Russian patrons swear, and more foreign and rush inventory. The French used for these purposes the plates, and the Italians - casserole. I saw all this, but only use a higher emotional tone, to explain to the person what is good and what is - bad.
At the same time, all my staff know the important rule: do not mix work with personal. At the end of the day we did not get offended at each other, because I always explain what and why punish scold. My co-workers know that I am a hard, but fair, so work with me for years.
- Cry really can help the cause?
- Absolutely! When you were a child, the parents certainly raised their voices and clapping by the pope, so you do what you need them to. At work, the same principles. And if a person responds to cry tears, I just did not cooperate with him. I need the same powerful people like me. Melancholic quickly disappear from my kitchen.
- What any boss can learn from the chef in the management plan?
- The main thing - to hear and to listen to people. And also to communicate to them that you Chief, Which in any case can not argue.
Sometimes, employees are beginning to punch you and see how you are a good manager. In this case, only one solution: to bring the rules of the game, and then ask to people in accordance with them. If a person does not want to play by your rules, then you apply the material punishment or moral destruction.
And despite the rigidity, it is important to remember about justice. You can not just blame the person - you need to explain what it is. Otherwise he'll think you're a moron, which you can not work.
- How to organize the work of a great team when everything is on fire and you need to act as quickly and smoothly?
- I've got this does not happen, because I'm always there and resolve such situations for his composure. If something happens in my absence, the assistants are working. They should send a team back on track.
Restaurant - a single organism sometimes sewn up the kitchen, and sometimes - hall. When the chef did not have time, waiters begin to offer gifts and apologize. It will be seen that the staff are not indifferent to this situation. If the waiter said that the chef - morons, it must drive. Thankfully, the guys are tough selection to get into my team, so that such characters in it.
- And the family you're as hard?
- Of course not. We all chameleons. In my life I Lapushka - very laytovy.
- What needs to happen to the house involved Constantine of "Hell's Kitchen"?
- This has never happened before. I can not stand the problems from work to home and vice versa. This is an important skill that I teach everyone. It is necessary to separate the family and the kitchen.
- Your wife is also good cooks, but you often unflattering mention her pancakes. Why do not you teach her, finally, to prepare them?
- My wife cooks very well, but every family has a trick. In our case it is pancakes, which she does not know how to do, but he believes that they are obtained oherenny. She does not want to learn, and I decided not to persuade a person. Anyway, I'm rarely at home, and I think pancakes are not the world beautiful.
"We are farmers, but we want to be Europeans. This is a problem of our nation "
- Judging by your words, in the Soviet Union in the kitchen creates chaos and chefs were considered almost the last people. Now the attitude towards the profession has changed. But do yourself a cook changed?
- I am one of the ten chiefs, who for 15 years have changed the attitude to the chef profession. We stopped to drink in the kitchen, became a human look, but most importantly - began to work.
And chefs like changed, but recently they have come back again to the starting point. The program "at loggerheads" we disclose defects of morons. I'm so emotsionalnichayu and swear on the screen, because trying to help them, and they do not want to respect the guest and the product.
- What are the three basic rules to cook in your kitchen abide unconditionally.
- First - subordination. Anybody and never argues.
The second - the rules of the game. An employee from the first day knows what time to dine, where to go and what to pee warn you gone to smoke.
third - employees stimulation. The children know that if they did a good job, you will receive a financial reward or promotion. If a person has no incentive, nothing good will come.
- At one time you yourselves were not the most ideal employee. Once you are fired from a restaurant for drinking alcohol in the workplace. How did this happen?
- It was a long time ago - in 1993. I worked in an institution 'Sadko Arcade ", and my friend and I decided to hangover. We were 20 years old, so we did not find anything more intelligent than pribuhnut vodka with orange juice in the women's locker room. We spotted the boss and immediately dismissed. From that moment on I took an oath that I will not drink on the job, and hold the promise to himself until now.
- Do you often lay off employees?
- For me it is very easy. I know exactly what I want from the people, and never adjust to them until they are down to fit me. If you want to work with me and be cool, you must first fulfill what I demand. And if that does not happen, dismiss a person is not difficult.
I never sawed off the branch on which sit, and did not try to be kind to everyone. I have a goal - to make the business profitable. I understand that people who work with me, have a family and loans, so they need to timely pay wages. I think about it every day, so with me continue to work, despite the fact that I was a hard man. We have staff with whom we have been together for 20 years, although I have them fired five times and took back.
- What are the negative points in the profession must be prepared to any budding chef?
- In addition, you no one to call you in any way. Young people who come into the profession, take a position on an errand. The main thing - go all the way, when you no one takes. This is a crucial period for the formation of personality. If you want to be somebody, you have to prove from a young age that worth something, although still young and stupid.
- And what can make already a chef?
- Fifteen years ago, I received his last paycheck - 1 million rubles. Now the chief of earnings depends on the status, skills and stardom. Beginners receive 60 000 rubles, and some 100 000 or 400 000. In the amount of influence a person and projects, which can be several. In this case, the cook gets a double salary. In general, there is no ceiling.
"Throughout the world, Japanese cuisine prepared Japanese, but we Kirghiz"
- I want to quote you: "If you all my life ate sausages and" Doshirak ", and then came into the molecular restaurant, you do not understand a damn." And as all prepare to go to such places?
- First of all it is necessary to respect the people who made this meal. If you do not like, you should not say it's shit, which is impossible to eat. Better to just not go to such places. This is the same that to go to the "Zhiguli" and then get the opportunity to ride on a Rolls-Royce or afraid to go to an expensive jewelry store, because you know that the saleswoman will test you with scanner.
Whichever restaurant you may be gone, there should be education and respect for the people who planted and cultivated for wheat in your blood, and then cook. We have the same cattle to cattle. We are farmers, but we want to be Europeans. This is a problem of our nation. I do not know what to do. We can only accept the fact that there is.
- What will happen with the restaurant business in Russia in the near future? What do you think, what concepts waiting for?
- I think everything will remain unchanged: Italian, Japanese and modern Russian cuisine. I would like to have, as in the world, was more local stories. Not enough Indian, Pan-Asian, Chinese restaurants. It is inexpensive, but extremely tasty food. However, it should be prepared by professionals.
After all, we as worldwide Japanese cuisine prepared Japanese, and we Kyrgyz. In this great misfortune of Russian restaurant business.
- Share life hacking, you can apply in your own kitchen right now.
- First of all you must have the right equipment. People buy one knife, Cut them all in a row, and then wonder what happens enough elegant and beautiful. The manicure set is not just different forceps. The same with the knives: there loin, Slayers, knife, saw, and so on.
The second rule - good equipment. You need to have a decent stove, a frying pan and blender.
And the last - the inspiration and time. Do not cook on the run: in this state, even a sandwich will not be what you had in mind.
It should be understood that the food - it's you. If you love yourself, then please be patient, time and desire. Otherwise, no dick will not work.
Layfhakerstvo from Konstantin Ivlev
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