Why does everyone wear sneakers and hoodies? How sporty took the podium and our wardrobe

Looking around on the streets or looking Photos from the podium shows of fashion, you can see that sporty style has become an integral part of the mainstream. Someone mocks "glamorous Gopnik," flooded the metropolis who does not understand why all the time to dress as if going for a jog. And the main question is why people are willing to spend on it so many money?

As always happens in such notable changes in the fashionable tastes of society, the only answer is no. Before us is a set of multiple factors that have converged into a single point. For a better understanding of what is happening you need to look at the history, then we notice the amazing parallel: initiated by the work of acclaimed Goshi Rubchinsky and Demna Gvasalia (Balenciaga creative director and head designer Vetements) coup intersects with Coco Chanel activity fashionable in our minds and even way dandy XIX century. Tell us about it in more detail.

generation gap and attention to street fashion

What decade to compare our reality? Of course, in every corner of people screaming, "90! 90th! 90 "But rewind the tape a little more back. Namely - in the 60s.

In many ways, you can find similar features, chief among which is the generation gap, with no talking about the eternal problem of fathers and children, and implies a whole the gap between people of different worlds.

In the 60 years of the hippie movement and pop art - something entirely new and unbelievable - conquering the hearts of young people and create an unbridgeable gap between the generations. today teens They are growing up with tablets in hand and used to do everything online: buy, learn and earn.

They think very differently and perceive the world, and today they form a new wave.

Another curious coincidence: Underline attention specifically to street fashion, which eventually begins to dictate the rules of the runway, to inspire the most famous designers. So it was in the days of "Swinging London", when mini-skirts from the streets came to the podium. What do we see now: reports of street style in the Fashion Weeks are no less, and even more public interest than the actual shows.

To stay in the trend, traditional luxury brands do collaborations with sports brands. Such collections are sold in a few hours, stand in line for them. For example do not need to go far: things from the acclaimed collaboration Supreme and Louis Vuitton resoldDealers selling T-shirts Louis Vuitton x Supreme half a million rubles at a price of 10 or even 100 times higher than the original, and recently presented a joint collectionCapsule collection Fendimania Fendi and Fila disappear from stores in a matter of hours. Sports style is part of the general culture of our time, and not to any particular subculture - hence such a stir.

Echoes of initiation rites

Sport - it's all about that? Sport - is first of all initiation.

So it was led, perhaps, ever since the first man crawled out of the cave and sighted eyes looked up at the stars. An integral part of the boy's life was the development of a survival skills in an aggressive world around: catch, run, jump, throw, lift. Only proved these skills, he could be called a man. Subsequently, these skills form a separate sports: running, javelin / disc Weightlifting. So the initiation of the topic is very important, it runs through the entire history of mankind. Fashion is no exception.

It is interesting to note that initially the girl from the sporting life has been ruled out. On the one hand, it's just an interesting fact. And on the other - it is eventually formed with the body and clothing from the different sexes. Think of ancient Greek statues. Men are depicted naked body, every muscle clearly defined, mainly because a man was a physical force. And the women, with the exception of a few goddesses portrayed completely covered with a cloth - no one thought to emphasize the parts of their physical development. And it lasted for centuries. Up to a point.

At the turn of XIX-XX centuries are beginning to advance the idea of ​​women's emancipation. One of the important parts of the new female character was the desire for an active life and, consequently, to the wardrobe change. Namely clothing for dynamic lifestyle and begins to undermine the foundations of centuries-old patriarchal despotism. Suit for cycling stirred up the society!

It became clear: a woman to become independent, it is necessary first of all to become independent of their wardrobe. Remove corset was relatively easy as proven several designers, but it was not enough. Completely rethink the feminine silhouette - that's what the problem was. And here we come to the era of Chanel. It's funny to realize that we no longer perceive it as a sporty style, namely, so it is in the 20-ies of XX century was. That is a revolution in women's locker room went hand in hand with the sport and emancipation. In the end, we return everything to the same initiation.

In addition, an element of rebellion was always present in the sport. Today he took a few more sharp form: Prove that you can, - just do it! Similar sentiments are very close to young people, teenagers, who are still just starting out in this world: they are looking for themselves, frustrated, lose confidence and regaining it, and losing win. In this case, it is not necessary to engage in sports, simply dressed in a sporty way, and it will show others that you are a fighter, fast, confident and dignified.

I love the image of "bad boy"

Using the elements of style, behavior, vocabulary underclass of individuals to enhance their own image, giving it a greater expressiveness is not new. Again, it does not have to be a punk rocker, biker, Gopnik to broadcast to the world that you are not as simple and harmless as it may seem. Simply borrow the trappings, because it clothes - the easiest way to show the world your true "I". This is especially true for the city, where millions of people can hardly find time to make new friends and get to know someone better.

This also otnesom undying interest in punk. All these tattered jeans from there.

You can be a good boy or a studious girl, but your clothes says: "Anarchy! Challenge to society! Do not come, and then it will be worse! "

All sporty today partly rests on this principle. Borrowings are mainly from the 80s and 90s. Why this time? He was close enough to remember the general direction, and far enough away to all bad erased from memory. Sporty style of this period - a hip-hop, which developed in the American ghettos. Hence the rebellious boys and girls, for whom expensive shoes and accessories, if not the ultimate dream, the goal for the next couple of months for sure. How else to explain the fact that they are willing to stand for 5-6 hours in the cold to get the right to buy new Yeezy Boost?

There is another aspect. Today's youth - a generation that was formed in an era of constant terrorist threats and related informational hysteria. Because of the extreme nervousness of the situation in the world riot generation converted to something very dangerous, hence the desire to "protect." Therefore it is not surprising popularity of the brutal and "prison" by Goshi Rubchinsky bows and Vetements. This is the spirit of our time, "warned the world about their readiness to fight, to fight it was not necessary."

conspicuous consumption

Here everything is simple: before the formation of the middle class was a clear division between servants and masters, and the main task of higher (More correctly - idle) class was making the most differ in their consumption habits from others. But with the development of the middle class in fashion start other processes. First image of the leisure class bourgeois copy, and then the image is gradually sinking lower and lower, and eventually port confused wrap up in expensive furs and jewelry shine. It was a huge blow to the ego the cream of society, and in front of them stood the task of finding new forms of demonstration of their wealth.

This also applies to our time, except that the wheel turns faster. Recall Versace: legendary prints have gone from the best podiums and legendary collaborationLukbuk: Versace for H & M with H & M to transition to Tverskaya.

A displayDolce & Gabbana, autumn-winter 2013/2014 Dolce & Gabbana in 2013 with their Byzantine princess was the apogee of excessive glamor on the verge of a theater and simultaneously sunset "heavy suites" in fashion. It all fed up, bored, so began to form new rules, which to date have taken no exaggeration to all the players of the fashion world.

As noted at the outset, such a revolution occurred in the past. At the beginning of the XIX century dandy with his deliberate simplicity in the image, inspired by the uniform of a lower class, replaced the raging luxury.

The same goes with the sport - a change in the direction of the deliberate and sometimes grotesque simplicity. So today we are witnessing just another turn of the wheel of conspicuous consumption of the leisure class, designed in the post-Soviet "dashing" clothes from Demna Gvasalia. Throw in a street riot youth - this is the fashion in 2018.

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Fashion - it's easy, but at the same time difficult. However, it is interesting. Now, as he watched the next massive shoes of Balenciaga, you'll understand where all of this.