How to make a ceiling of plasterboard with their hands
Do It Yourself Educational Program / / December 19, 2019
1. Prepare materials
- Plasterboard 12.5 mm;
- PP profiles 60 × 27;
- Mo profiles 28 × 27;
- profiles extenders;
- Connectors siblings;
- direct suspensions;
- screws 3,5 × 9 mm;
- screws 3,5 × 25 mm;
- dowel-nails 6 × 40 mm;
- wedge-anchor 6 × 40 mm;
- reinforcing tape;
- gidrouroven or laser level;
- bubble level;
- otbivochnogo cord;
- Metal scissors;
- knife for drywall;
- putty knife.
2. Calculate the position of the suspended ceiling
The first thing you need to determine at what level will be located ceiling. To do this, find the lowest point of overlap, add to it the frame thickness.
Using gidrouroven, make a mark in one of the corners on an arbitrary height, and then in turn transfer it to others. In the presence of the laser level just turn it on and mark the position of the horizon in each of the corners.
Connect all the risks in one line on the perimeter of the room using otbivochnogo cord. Measure the distance from the reference line to overlap at the corners and few places on each of the walls. The smallest distance and shows the lowest point.
If there is no need specifically to lower the ceiling, mark down from the found point 40 mm 30 on the frame thickness and 10 more - on clearance for installation. When installing large recessed luminaires add height to which they will extend beyond the frame.
In this example, the lowest point - 1 640 mm. We descend from it by 40 mm, and obtain the ceiling level at a distance of 1 600 mm from the reference line.
3. Make a frame layout
For proper installation, you must accurately mark the location of all elements of the framework. It consists of a wall-mounted guide, which sets out the basic profiles, and they in turn are attached to the overlap of the suspensions. Across the main mounted supporting profiles that are screwed directly to the drywall.
- The guide profiles. Their situation we noted in the previous step.
- Basic profiles are installed at intervals along the axes of 1200 mm. In this extreme of the walls of the beam are located at a distance of ≤ 1170 mm.
- Suspensions are mounted in steps 650-1000 mm.
- Support profiles are inserted every 500 mm.
For example, mark up room 3.5 3.6 m. Three entire sheet accurately cover the entire width of the room. Along the length 1 m is not enough, so the number of adding pieces of each 1 × 1,2 m. Technology mounting joints of adjacent sheets must go vrazbezhku, in the manner of brickwork. Hence, starting with the first row of the entire sheet, the second - with a piece, and the third - again with the whole.
Measure out a tape measure all the necessary intervals. Place the mark in the right places, and then connect them in line with a otbivochnogo cord. Anchorages suspensions spread so that there are no more than 1 m therebetween, and preferably less.
4. Assemble the guiding profiles
Fasten the profiles around the room Mon 28 × 27 so that their lower part coincide with the previously marked line. If the wall is concrete or brick, attach a profile and tick pencil fastener locations. Then drill perforator hole, insert through the profile and dowel hammer inside hammering a nail. The wooden wall can be fixed with screws using guides screwdriver without pre-drilling.
If necessary, connect the profiles butt without overlaps on one another. Step fixtures - 250-500 mm, but not less than three pieces on one piece of profile.
For noise insulation before installation in the profiles can be pasted special sealing tape or apply silicone sealant.
5. Fasten hangers
Next on marked points previously set suspensions for the main frame profiles. The concrete slabs - with metal wedge anchors and punch in wood - screws and screwdriver. After mounting suspensions bend down.
For soundproofing they can also stick the sealing tape or silicone fluff. An even greater effect is achieved by using special antivibration suspensions with elastic inserts.
6. Set the basic frame profiles
Cut pieces of the required index profile of 60 × 27 and insert into guide. Arrange them so that the beam center coincides with applied earlier marks.
If the length of one profile is missing - add additional segment and dock them together using a special connector.
7. Secure the main profiles on the same plane
For a perfectly flat plane of the plasterboard liner to align all beams in one line. The easiest way to do this ordinary thread.
Raise all profiles up to 10-15 mm and lock by inserting screws into holes suspensions. Profiles across between the walls of the thread pull and fix with screws on the guide flush with the latter.
Starting at the wall, one free the profiles and aligning them so that they are barely touching the skin, attach four screws 3,5 × 9 mm - two on each side.
First, fix the hangers in the middle of the beams to remove the slack. After this basic profiles almost clear stand in their position. Will only have to check with thread and tighten the screws in the suspensions.
8. Install bearing profiles
Now, across the main bearing profiles must be assembled, which will hold the drywall. Slice size of the beam in the same index profile of 60 × 27 and secured with single tier connectors ( "crab").
If special fittings have at hand, it is possible to use Mo-profile pruning about 100 mm in length as a makeshift guides. They need to be attached to the main profiles with screws and have them insert bearing and also fix the self-tapping screws.
9. Fit the wiring and noise insulation
Before veneering plasterboard is necessary to lay electric cables. As a rule, they are fixed to the ceiling or suspensions. To lay the wires inside the frame in any case can not, because there is a risk to damage them with screws for mounting plates.
To improve the sound insulation between the ceiling frame profiles or on top of it is placed the mineral wool slabs. When sufficient length of the free ends of their hangers are folded, thereby holding the soundproofing layer.
10. cutting sheets
For cutting panels tape mark the desired size and profile or applying a rule, cardboard cut through with a knife. Post and is breaking the severed part and then prosekayut paper from the bottom. After a plane and then align the edge of the cut line.
Also, before installing do not forget to remove the a plane or knife chamfer angle of 22.5 ° at the edges, which will be adjacent to the other sheets. It is necessary to further qualitatively repaired joints putty.
Be sure to measure out and mark sheets on places where wires are lighting. After finishing work plasterboard can be easily cut through and get the cables.
11. Will be coated frame plasterboard
Together with an assistant lift the sheet and install in its place. Fix on a path to all the profiles of the frame. Sheets of joints in one row only on the carrier profile, avoiding the edges of the drywall hung in the air. Plates in adjacent rows offset mount with no less than the skeleton step.
Screws wrap smoothly, avoiding distortions. Do not leave their cap protruding above the surface of the sheet, but not too strongly utaplivat: they should be aligned with the plane of plasterboard or below 1 mm.
Attach screws with a pitch of 150 mm departing from the edges of paper pasted on the 10 mm, and from the open - 15 mm. Screws on adjacent plates are displaced relative to each other by 10 mm.
12. Seal the joints
Upon completion of installation of all the joints of sheets covered with putty reinforcing tape. To do this, first make sure the reliability of fastening screws and screw the protruding head screwdriver if necessary.
Then whisk brush dust in the joints of the sheets and primed all cut edges. Fill putty seams with spatula. Glue the center of the joint reinforcement tape and push her spatula. Following apply a second layer of filler. The same composition seal the site of attachment of screws.
13. Perform finish
After grouting tiled surface is ready for any kind of finishing: ceiling can be painted, wallpapered or apply decorative putty.
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