As vegetable milk won the love of the world
Health / / December 19, 2019
Edition of The Guardian published article vegetable milks about history. Layfhaker chose from it is most interesting to look how things are going in Russia.
Healthy lifestyle has become incredibly popular
In the spring of 2018 New York captured a very specific and for someone to catastrophic food shortages. On the shelves were empty seats in coffee shops - signs of apology, and Twitter and Instagram seethed with indignation. In New York ended with oat milk.
drink Oatly shortage was felt throughout the country. This Swedish company producing vegetable milk came to the US market in 2016. To his surprise, she quickly evolved from a little-known brand of healthy food in the most popular alternative to cow's milk. Since 2016 Oatly has gone from supplying more fashionable New York coffee shops to 3 thousand food outlets nationwide. The company increased its production by 1250% in order to keep up with demand.
Fortunately, in 2019 a lot of alternatives to cow's milk. In any large supermarket in the West you will find on the shelves of the almond drinks, hazelnuts, peanuts,
walnut or cashews - and this is only the options of nuts. But there is another coconut, hemp, wheat, pea and quinoa-milk.Now it does not go in, but only in 2008 was an alternative to cow's milk only soy. To find something else would have to comb health food stores. Somewhere among the supplements for digestion you could find a severe type of box rice milk. "Then it was dead shelves, - says John Schoolcraft (John Schoolcraft), creative director Oatly Global Development. - Only for people with lactose intolerance or milk allergies, vegetarians and vegans - people who at that time were on the margins of society. "
Now vegetable milk is no longer considered a novelty. In the UK in 2015, sales rose 30% thanks to a wave of interest in vegetarianism and veganism. In the US, almost half of consumers in the baskets adds vegetable milk. And its global production is estimated at 16 billion dollars.
Reputation of cow's milk as a healthy product was threatened.
Consumers worried about antibiotics that are given to cattle, cruelty to animals and the effect of milk production on the environment.
But the boom in alternative milk - is much more than just a change of drink. For those who give it priority, is the next step in a fundamental transition to a more conscious and environmentally sound way of life.
At the same time, critics say these drinks are only advertised nutty juice with additives - a symptom of everything that went wrong with the modern food culture. It played out a strange fight. On the one hand - the industry, which is trying to replace what, according to her, we do not need. On the other - milk production, which over the years to sell their products as the basis healthy diet, Ignoring the fact that many people in the world do without them perfectly.
Drinking cow's milk at different times stronger than me
The human body can digest milk from birth. In the intestine of young children produced by the enzyme lactase, which breaks down lactose - the sugar in breast and cow's milk - into simpler sugars. Most people develop this enzyme decreases after weaning.
Adam Fox (Adam Fox), a children's allergistIn terms of device mammalian norm - it is the ability to digest breast milk after infancy cessation of production of lactase and lactose intolerance. But there is a group of people with a genetic mutation that allows them to produce lactase into adulthood. This northern Europeans, Masai, some Arabs. But they are the exception rather than the rule.
Such a split between those who can drink milk, and all the others occurred about 10 thousand years ago. Around this time, people domesticated animals. In this case, more than two-thirds of adults who can not tolerate lactose in the world: a glass of milk can lead to bloating, stomach pains and diarrhea. There is also allergic to milk proteins, but it suffers from a very small percentage of the population.
Milk in the form in which we know it today, is a relatively recent phenomenon. Fresh drink out of the refrigerator spoils quickly and can become a carrier of deadly pathogens, including E. coli and pathogen tuberculosis. Therefore, before the milk consumed or immediately after milking the cows, or in the form of cheese and other fermented products.
They drank it a little. "The Romans considered it a sign of barbarism, - says Mark Kurlanski (Mark Kurlansky), author of books about the history of salt cod, and that started a genre - biography products. - Milk drinking only people living on farms, because they are only able to get it fresh enough. " But even then cow's milk was considered of lower quality than the goat and donkey.
In the XIX century in New York, there was a scandal with "slop milk." The cows were given dirty wastewater from urban breweries, which led to thousands of child deaths.
Only at the beginning of the XX century with the introduction of mandatory pasteurization of milk was safe.
In Europe it has received political support at the time of the First World War. Not enough food, and the scientists were looking for affordable nutritious food. They became milk, rich in protein and recently discovered vitamins. Soon, drink and benefit from it began to advertise everywhere. He became the first in the history of superfudom.
Today, the dairy industry - it is strictly regulated giant worth more than $ 400 billion. It includes about 274 million cattle in the world. However, the attractiveness of milk is declining. For example, in the US in 2012, sales of this product fellUS non-dairy milk sales grow 61% over the last 5 years 15%. The share of milk in the total volume of all drinks consumed has decreased due to the rising popularity of bottled water, sodas, juices and smoothies. However, they did not threaten the milk. It is associated with health and proper nutrition while not logged vegetable analogues in vogue.
His image influenced veganism and clean food
Fighters for animal rights has become easier to communicate their ideas to the masses thanks to the Internet. Try typing on YouTube to "dairy industry" or dairy, and you will fall a video about the cruelty of the dairy industry. For example, the documentary "Skotozagovor» (Cowspiracy) exposes animal cruelty and a catastrophic impact on the environment.
Animal leads to the release of huge amounts of greenhouse gases pollute water and soil. According to a recent studyReducing food's environmental impacts through producers and consumers, Adherence to a vegetarian or vegan diet - the only effective way to reduce their own environmental footprint.
In addition, the vegetable milk has been gaining popularity because of its association with pure power. This idea is promoted by crowds of young bloggers and wellness Instagram-celebrities, calls for the elimination of diet all processed, allergen and "unnatural": products with gluten and caffeine, meat and milk.
Adherents of this diet is considered lactose intolerance causes a range of problems: acne, Eczema, drowsiness, joint pain and digestive disorders.
Discourage subscribers from cow's milk, proponents of pure power pushed them to the side of vegetable alternatives.
Profiles inflyuenserov full of photos of Thai curry with coconut milk and gluten-free beet bread. Palatability pictures - one of the key factors in the popularity of plant-based diets.
Proponents of pure power did something with which failed during campaign vegan campaigns. Suddenly giving up cow's milk has become not only a health issue. Now it is part of a better, more beautiful life.
First signs of change - Soybean
The idea of making milk plant is not new. In China, soy milk is prepared at least from the XIV century, most of it was used for tofu. The earliest mention of almond milk found in Baghdad cookbook in 1226. But in the West, almond and soy milk until recently was known only for vegetarians and rare eccentrics. For example, the soy beverage was very fond of Henry Ford.
In 1956 in London, organized by the Society of plant milk (Plantmilk Society). Its founder Leslie Cross (Leslie Cross), who was then vice-president of the British Society for vegans, particularly opposed the cruelty of the dairy industry and would like to find a substitute for cow's milk. Its main objective was to obtain the protein in liquid form.
There was a lot of experiments with cabbage, but eventually settled on soybeans. The market was very small, a few hundred people, and the idea failed.
In 1981, the Belgian food technologist Vandermortele Philippe (Philippe Vandemoortele) began to apply for the sale of soy milk new technology Tetra Brik package. He was young and just started the business in the garage. Its brand Vandermortele called Alpro. Reviews of the production at first was controversial. The local supermarket Vandermortele refused, but he did not despair. Today, Alpro is owned by Danone, and its turnover was around 239 million dollars in 2017.
But the real triumph of soy occurred in the late '90s, when the company made from Colorado WhiteWave seemed It would be obvious discovery: if you put products in the refrigerator next to a cow's milk, sales begin grow. Her chilled Silk soy beverage became a sensation. In addition, the company seized upon appearing at the time of the study on the relationship of high cholesterol and heart diseases.
Manufacturers of vegetable milk began promoting it as a healthy alternative to the usual. Suddenly, soy has become a product for everyone.
But the peak of its popularity was short-lived for the most part because of not very pleasant taste. Even modern forms of soy milk to which is added sugar and thickeners, taste and smell reminiscent of beans.
In addition, in the early 2000s, there is evidence that soy can be dangerous. It contains phytoestrogens - compounds similar to estrogen. They imitate the work of this hormone in the body. There were fears that these substances disrupt the hormonal system and will make men more feminine. Clinical studies have shown that these fears are exaggerated. However, some people still believe in them, and even promote the theory that soy milk - part of a conspiracy by feminization men.
The second wave - almonds
In 2008 the organization Blue Diamond Growers, specializing in almonds, felt for a good opportunity. Her milk Almond Breeze long been inferior in Silk soy popularity. To compete with them, it was necessary also to sell their products in refrigerated display cases. But supermarkets are strictly controlled shelf space by charging high fees for the placement of the new product. This was especially true of profitable storefronts passed by a lot of buyers.
Blue Diamond Growers entered into a partnership with the largest dairy producer in the United States. They decided to focus on areas with a high percentage of Hispanic population, because it is more common among lactose intolerance.
Around the same time, the producers of almonds in California engaged in marketing and research support on benefits of almonds. Glossy magazines immediately announced his superfudom. Almond Breeze milk has become so successful that two years later launched the manufacturer Silk almond drink version to keep. By 2013, almonds replaced soybeans from the position of the most popular alternative to cow's milk.
Today, the plant is full of milk market. To stand out, you need to offer something special.
For example, an Australian company promises Nutty Bruce "activated almonds", alluding to the currently fashionable activated carbon that is added everywhere - from burgers to smoothies and ice cream. In practice, this means that the nuts are soaked in water just a little longer than usual. A New York-based producer of Elmhurst Milked own patented protein extraction process, which preserves more value.
In 2018 almond milk wasUS non-dairy milk sales grow 61% over the last 5 years about two-thirds of all milk sold by the plant in the US, but his reputation suffered. Firstly, due to environmental concerns. According to some reportsThe green, blue and grey water footprint of crops and derived crop productsTo grow one amygdala (in fact it is not a nut, but a seed), you need 4.5 liters of water. In California, one of the most important global suppliers of almond, its cultivation takes 10% of all water supplies. This is significant for the state where the drought is often the case.
In addition, consumers have noticed that almond milk is very low content of the almonds. And Silk, Alpro and contain only 2%. This emulsion is a water-based, which is added to vegetable oil, a lot of sugars and resins. Industry insiders believe that the peak of popularity of almond milk has passed, is now promising coconut and oatmeal.
New favorite - oats
In 2012, when Tony Petersson (Toni Petersson) became the head of the Swedish company Oatly, almost no one had heard of oat milk outside Sweden. It was necessary to change the perception of consumers and to figure out why people no problems with lactose to buy this product.
The company changed the spelling of the brand with Oatly on Oatly! and changed to a more eye-catching package design for millenialov. And on the side of the box began to print messages from employees of the company in which they greet customers with the entry into the ranks of "generation postmoloka" and joining the "cult."
But they are really a stroke of genius - creating versions of milk for baristas. Most types of vegetable milk is not foamed and exfoliates in hot beverages. This is one of the reasons that many manufacturers use pH regulators and other additives. In Oatly have an advantage: their milk is foamed, and the characteristic taste of oatmeal is not felt because of the coffee.
Petersson first began promoting Oatly milk is not through supermarkets, and a coffee shop in hipster districts of New York and London.
Tony Petersson, head OatlyThe volume comes from retail, but demand there is in coffee shops. It was there the first time you try and evaluate our product, and it takes place in a pleasant atmosphere for you.
Not without dispute. In 2015, the Swedish dairy industry sued Oatly, stating that its advertising slogan "Just as milk, only for people" unjustly demeans cow's milk. Applicants are able to win the case, but continues to use the slogan Oatly outside Sweden. "The phrase suggests that everyone knows. Cows producing milk for calves ", - explained in the company.
The new goal Oatly - China. The company began sales in the country in 2016, and while promising indicators. Demand is growing, as Chinese firms invest in vegetable milk and other lactose-free versions of the drink. Oatly considering the conquest of the Chinese market not only as a financial target, but also as an ethical obligation.
Tony PeterssonThe worst thing that can happen in terms of the environment - is if the Chinese start drinking cow's milk. There are not enough cows to provide such a demand.
This trend - a reflection of today's food culture
Is it a vegetable milk - healthy replacement cow? This is a matter of heated debate, which is important not only to theorists. In June 2017 the Belgian couple was found guilty of unintentional death of a seven-month baby, which feeds the milk plant. Parents who own a health food store, believed that their baby is not lactose intolerant. And enlisted the help of homeopathy, and not doctors.
Also a lot of debate about whether or not to add the vegetable milk vitamins, so it was more like a cow. Some consider this unfair. Other additives refuse because the fortified products are not certified as organic.
Manufacturers increasingly trying to talk about what is not in their products: vegetable fat, sugar, soy, gluten, GMO, Bisphenol. Sometimes the list is longer than the list of ingredients. Some companies are even proud, that do not add carrageenan, although the thickening agent produced from algae, deemed safe by the World Health Organization.
This is the inevitable culmination of today's alarming food culture. If before we bought the food, depending on what ingredients are in it, now look, do not have any.
Therefore, cow's milk is not considered to be so valuable. Now people are not afraid of child malnutrition, and child obesity. "According to many scientists, the idea that children have to drink cow's milk - a fiction. And the conviction that it makes a big and strong, too, - said Mark Kurlanski. - On the other hand, think that the "bad" cow's milk can be replaced with almond or soy, it is impossible. These are completely different products. "
Cow's milk does not become less useful than before. In it a lot of nutrients, it is a good a source of calciumProtein, riboflavin and potassium. We can not say that it is useless product.
However, the popularity of vegetable milk is not so much related to its usefulness to the body, and even ethical considerations. "People can, and take account of these criteria, but not in the first place" - says Julian Mellenthin (Julian Mellentin), director of analyst firm New Nutrition Business, which studies trends in food industry. 90% of consumers continue to buy vegetable milk products from cows, for example cheese and ice cream.
Our interest in the vegetable milk is due to the manifestation of the collective fear that our body that something is wrong. That we are not as healthy and happy as they could (or should) be, and need someone to blame in this.
Many find themselves intolerant of dairy products and gluten. Perhaps the growing distrust of the cow's milk - a symptom of loss of faith in agriculture and nutrition. People have learned that nutritionists recommend constantly changing. At first it was thought that we killed saturated fats, and now the number one enemy - sugar. Eggs and nuts used to be called the source of bad cholesterol, and now they are referred to superfudam. Naturally, this causes a skeptical reaction to the words of experts. Although science is so arranged: there are new data, the conclusions change.
But then, who can say with certainty that the blood does not affect the lactose tolerance or carrageenan does not lead to unknown diseases? "If our new Lactose Intolerance defies diagnosis, it does not mean that it should not be taken seriously - says Mellenthin. - It is not associated with allergies and with health. In order to help improve it. " And it's hard to argue.
In Russia, everything is just beginning
We demand for the vegetable milk is also growing. Domestic manufacturers are going to change the food culture in the country and to press the dairy industry. On the shelves are more and more products: oatmeal, Buckwheat, soybean milk produced locally. According toOther milk: soy, almond and coconut drink double sales analytical agency Nielsen, in the first quarter 2018 sales of vegetable milk increased by 2.5 times compared to 2017.
The number of customers also increased because more and more popularity is gaining a healthy lifestyle. In a study conducted by Nielsen 37% of the 2016 respondents in Russia said they are willing to pay a premium price for products that contain the best and the extra nutritional value.
However, the vegetable milk is not yet ready to compete with the cow. While it is only 1% of total sales of milk in Russia.
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