What are peels and how to choose the right one for you
Miscellaneous / / August 04, 2023
A cosmetologist advised what to do with a dull complexion, acne, age spots or wrinkles.
What problems can peels solve?
Peeling is a cosmetic procedure during which exfoliate upper layers of the skin. It can affect only a few rows of cells, or it can remove everything down to the deep layers of the dermis.
The depth of impact is chosen based on the task. Peeling helps with:
- dull complexion;
- enlarged pores;
- oily skin;
- acne
- hyperpigmentation;
- wrinkles;
- scars and scars.
What are peels
Peeling is usually understood as the application of special chemicals, mainly acids, to the skin. But peeling also includes other methods of exposure:
- mechanical, that is all scrubs, rolls and even microdermabrasion, during which the upper layers of the skin are removed with an apparatus similar to a sandblasting machine;
- biological - means with enzymes, or enzymes;
- physical - ultrasonic or galvanic cleaning, laser resurfacing and other hardware methods.
Chemical peels usually contain alpha, beta and polyhydroxy acids: mandelic, salicylic, grape, lactic and others. They have differences in action, but in general the principle is the same. Specific appointments will depend not only on the acid itself, but also on its concentration and additional components. So all recommendations regarding acids are conditional.
Chemical peels vary in depth of exposure:
- Superficial, which work only on the uppermost layers of the skin. After them there may not even be peeling.
- Superficial median, affecting the epidermis and a small part of the dermis. They usually leave a small bran-like peeling that disappears in a few days.
- Median, which penetrate deep into the dermis. After the procedure, the skin peels off in large pieces, and rehabilitation takes about two weeks.
- Deep, such as phenol. They are made only in hospitals of plastic clinics. It destroys the entire dermis to the subcutaneous fat and is used in exceptional cases. After it, fresh skin will grow back within a month.
In an ideal world, only superficial peelings, because all the rest can only be done by a beautician. But on marketplaces, there is a chance to stumble upon a very aggressive remedy that will leave scars and hyperpigmentation if not handled properly.
Who Shouldn't Have Peels?
Although almost everyone can do peels, some people still costs refuse them. For example:
- pregnant, because an unstable hormonal background can lead to the appearance of hyperpigmentation after peeling;
- those who take retinoids by mouth, because the likelihood of scarring increases;
- patients with keloid scars (or with close relatives who have them) - these are such convex scars that are much larger than the injury itself;
- those who often have severe recurrent skin infections, such as herpesso as not to provoke severe inflammation.
What to do if you have dull, dehydrated skin
Dehydrated skin recovers worse. Therefore, peels should not be the first stage of treatment.
Oksana Chernenko
With dull and dehydrated skin, it is recommended to start your cosmetology journey with biorevitalization. This is the introduction of hyaluronic acid into the skin, which binds a huge amount of water: data Cleveland Clinic, a quarter teaspoon of hyaluronic acid retains over 5 liters of water. Biorevitalization compensates for the lack of moisture in the skin, after which other procedures can be safely and effectively carried out.
To improve complexion and cope with irregularities, surface compounds are usually sufficient. Sometimes they are even recommended to be done once a week or two. Such products can be applied at home. Usually, for dehydrated skin, choose something with lactic acid, which moisturizes, and almond, which improves complexion.
What to do if you have oily skin
Skin type is an innate characteristic, it does not change. This is the normal state. It does not mean that the face will be shiny or breakout. But the skin can look oily due to dehydration or other disorders. A cosmetologist will help to understand the reasons. He will correct your care.
Oksana Chernenko
If you are the owner of porous, oily skin, then you can use stronger means: acid peelings, some hardware ones, such as carbon peeling, as well as mechanical scrubbing - microdermabrasion.
Chemical peels for oily skin usually contain salicylic and mandelic acids. They reduce the secretion of sebum.
But if your skin has redness (couperosis) or is sensitive and dehydrated, aggressive methods are contraindicated. In this case, very light compositions are suitable. For example, enzymatic or enzymatic peels.
What to do if you have rashes
Not all rashes will be manifestations of acne.
Oksana Chernenko
Rashes on the skin of the face are a sign of various diseases - acne, rosacea, perioral dermatitis and others. And the disease should be treated by a doctor, and not experimented by yourself. That's what dermatologists are for.
Remember that peels are not done on inflamed skin, as there is a risk of new rashes. And these funds are used during the period of remission and only in agreement with the dermatologist.
As with oily skin, mandelic and salicylic acids are usually chosen for acne. The first also evens out the complexion and protects against hyperpigmentation.
What to do if you have hyperpigmentation
hyperpigmentation - These are dark spots that appear due to uneven distribution of pigment in the skin. They occur after sun exposure, injury, during pregnancy or due to chronic diseases.
Oksana Chernenko
Hyperpigmentation usually requires complex treatment with special mesotherapy preparations, hardware techniques and chemical peels. In addition, home care must be corrected: sunscreens and cosmetics that block the formation of pigment are used.
Whitening peels most often contain mandelic acid, as well as additional components such as vitamin C. They are needed to slow down the production of melanin.
Hyperpigmentation rarely occurs only in the superficial layers of the skin, so it is almost impossible to get rid of it at home. It is better to immediately contact a beautician and not spend money on new ones. home remedies.
What to do if you have wrinkles
Wrinkles are creases that occur when muscles move the skin.
Oksana Chernenko
Wrinkles are a sign of age, which is formed primarily due to the hyperactivity of facial muscles, as well as due to the thinning of the dermis. Therefore, it is worth starting with botulinum therapy to block excessive muscle activity, and collagen-stimulating drugs that will restore normal skin thickness. And after that, you can think about removing residual traces with the help of peeling.
Anti-aging peels often contain lactic and pyruvic acids, as well as peptides and antioxidants. These additional ingredients are needed in order to prevent cell damage by reactive oxygen species and stimulate the production hyaluronic acid and collagen.
What to do if you have post-acne and scars
post-acne - These are various acne complications, such as brown or bluish spots, rounded raised scars, or scars that resemble craters.
Oksana Chernenko
Congestive spots and scars are formed due to a long-term inflammatory process in the skin. Unfortunately, to combat post-acne, one often has to use heavy artillery - laser resurfacing and radio wave lifting. But in the case of fresh and shallow spots and scars, acid peels will help improve the condition of the skin.
Get rid of scars and scars it is impossible at home - the problem is very deep, and attempts to solve it on your own will most likely lead to new craters. With such indications, it is better to make an appointment with a beautician.
What are the complications of peeling?
Peeling is, though controlled, but still a skin injury. Therefore, after it can to appear complications:
- redness, peeling and swelling;
- skin infection;
- hyperpigmentation;
- scarring.
And when conducting a deep phenol peel, the heart, liver and kidneys can suffer, because phenol is a toxic compound.
Complications will be proportional to the depth of exposure and the concentration of peeling.
Oksana Chernenko
The most common complication after peeling is dermatitis, or skin inflammation. It may be due to improper procedure, as well as due to errors in post-procedural care.
Also, after peeling, hyperpigmentation may occur. That is why we, cosmetologists, always prescribe products with SPF protection in post-peel care.
Remember that for home use you should not buy professional aggressive products. The likelihood of experiencing complications is much higher than you think. So the benefits of such savings will be imaginary - treatment in the end can cost much more.
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