How to seal a bicycle inner tube
Miscellaneous / / June 23, 2023
Step-by-step instructions will help to cope with the problem in about half an hour.
1. Prepare everything you need
- Patch;
- glue;
- sandpaper or grater;
- blades for boarding (mounting);
- pump;
- wrenches - optional;
- chalk or marker;
- water tank - optional;
- rag;
- a cloth soaked in acetone, gasoline or alcohol is optional.
2. Remove the wheel
If the wheel mount is not quick-release or you do not have a key, then you can skip the step. Although it will be less convenient.
Front wheel
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Frame: Park Tool / YouTube
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Frame: Park Tool / YouTube
On disc brakes, nothing else needs to be done, but on rim brakes, the pads should be separated so that they do not interfere with getting the wheel. To do this, lightly squeeze the levers with your hands and remove the cable.
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Frame: Park Tool / YouTube
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Frame: Park Tool / YouTube
If the mount is quick-release, simply lower the eccentric lever and unscrew the nut two or three turns from the back. On axles with nuts, use appropriate spanners (usually 15 mm). Next, just pull out the freed wheel.
Rear wheel
If you have a speed bike, first flip the derailleur and put it in the highest gear to get the chain over to the smallest sprocket and make it easier to remove.
On any bike, lower the quick release lever, loosen the nut on the back if necessary, and then lift up the rear derailleur and remove the wheel.
3. Pull down the camera
If the puncture is not very strong and the wheel has not flattened itself, completely bleed the air out of it. Depending on the type of valve, the actions will vary.
Presta valve
Remove the protective cap and unscrew the fixing nut at the rim.
Unscrew the small nut on the spool stem (don't worry, it won't fall off). Press down on the stem and hold with your finger until all air is expelled.
valve shredder
Unscrew the protective cap and press something sharp on the valve stem to release air. To do this, you can use the back of the cap, a key, a screwdriver.
4. Disassemble the tire
Before you start, squeeze the entire tire around the circumference of the wheel with your hands - just squeeze hard from the sides. This will help separate the tire from the rim and it will come off much easier.
If there are no montages at hand, you can replace them with improvised means: a screwdriver, a spoon, a toothbrush, a key, a coin.
Start anywhere except in the area opposite the vent. Gently insert the first spatula vertically down between the rim and the tire, then after 10–15 cm, insert the second one in the same way. After that, simultaneously press both prybars, using them as a lever, and remove the tire from the rim.
When part of the tire is free, insert the spatula a little deeper and run it along the rim to completely remove one bead of the tire around the entire circumference. At some point, it will be possible to do it simply by hand.
It is enough to release only one bead of the tire - it is not necessary to completely remove it from the rim.
5. Take out the camera
Press on the valve, sinking it into the rim. Grasping the camera with your hands, carefully pull it out.
It is important not to move the tire with the wheel or mark the position of the valve. This will allow you not to lose the place of possible damage to the tire.
6. Determine the location of the camera puncture
Inflate the chamber well with a pump and, alternately squeezing it around the entire circumference, carefully inspect, or rather, “listen” for a puncture. If the hole is large, it will be easy to find it by the hissing air coming out.
To detect a small puncture, if possible, immerse the camera in water or pour it over the surface and look for bubbles.
If there is no water, you can moisten your finger with saliva and move it over the camera - this way you will better feel the movement of air. You can also sprinkle rubber with fine dust from the side of the road and look for a puncture by inflating grains of sand.
Mark the spot with the hole so you don't lose it. Circle with chalk, and if you have a marker, draw a large crosshair with a hole in the center.
7. Clean up the puncture site
Before you begin, wipe and dry your camera completely.
For reliable bonding, clean the area around the hole with a grater or sandpaper from the repair kit. The surface should become rough and matte, but do not get carried away so as not to damage the camera.
If there is no grater or skin on hand, then a file on a multitool is also suitable for these purposes. In the most extreme case, you can rub the camera on the asphalt.
Ideally, the cleaned surface should be degreased. At home, this can be done with a napkin soaked in acetone, gasoline or alcohol.
8. Apply glue
Squeeze some glue out of the tube, and starting from the center of the hole, spread a thin even layer over the chamber. The resulting area should be slightly larger than the size of the patch. Usually it is not necessary to apply glue to the patch itself. But it is better to check the instructions on the tube - some formulations require lubrication of both surfaces.
Wait 2-3 minutes for the applied adhesive to dry. You can touch the edge with your fingernail - if it doesn't stretch, you're done.
9. Apply the patch
Remove the protective foil from the patch and carefully glue it exactly in the center of the puncture. Press it against the camera as hard as possible to squeeze out all the air, and hold for about 30 seconds.
The reliability of the connection will depend on this action, therefore, at home, you can squeeze the camera in a clamp or vice, placing a plank on both sides.
On the road, it is convenient to put the camera on the pump or frame pipe, and then press the patch with your fingers and smooth it well with a crowbar from the center to the edges. You can place the camera on a clean, flat surface like smooth stone, take off your shoes, and press down on the patch with your heel.
10. Wait
The adhesive from the repair kit is usually fast-acting and gains strength in 5-15 minutes. During this time, you can just inspect the tire.
11. Check the tire
If the foreign object that damaged the wheel is still inside the tire, then you risk getting a new puncture immediately after repair.
Attach the tube to the wheel, aligning the valve with the hole under it, and visually transfer the place with the patch to the tire. Remove the tire and carefully inspect the inside. If there is a thorn, a sharp stone, a nail or something else, remove it.
Additionally, wipe the entire inside surface of the tire with a cloth to remove sand, small stones, and other debris that could cause a puncture in the future.
12. Check the quality of the repair
Before assembling the wheel, it will not be superfluous to check whether the patch has been successfully placed and whether there is an air leak. To do this, fully inflate the camera and listen carefully again for whistling sounds.
Also make sure that the edges of the patch are flat against the surface and do not stick out.
13. Put the camera back in place
Lower the camera so that it holds its shape slightly. Take the tire aside, insert the valve and, moving away from it, carefully tuck the chamber inside. Make sure that it does not twist and lies flat.
14. Board the tire
Starting from the valve, place your hands around the bead of the tire behind the rim and move in a circle until you fill the entire tire. At the end, considerable effort may be required. If you can’t do it by hand, use mounting blades.
Spread the tire by pressing it with your hands around the entire circumference, and check if the camera has come out somewhere. Also make sure the nipple is vertical and not tilted to the side. Correct it if necessary. If there is a fixing nut on the valve, screw it on.
15. pump up the wheel
With a pump pump up the wheel up to working pressure. Make sure the tire sits evenly on the rim. If not, straighten it by bending it with your hands.
Install the protective cap on the nipple. On the presta valves, pre-tighten the small nut that secures the spool stem.
16. Set the wheel back
Front wheel
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Frame: Park Tool / YouTube
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Frame: Park Tool / YouTube
Insert the part into the fork until it stops, tighten the eccentric nut so that the lever on the reverse side closes hard, and then lift it up. If the mount is not quick-release, use the keys.
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Frame: Park Tool / YouTube
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Frame: Park Tool / YouTube
If the brakes are bypass, squeeze the shoe levers and insert the drive cable back.
Rear wheel
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Frame: Park Tool / YouTube
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Frame: Park Tool / YouTube
Raise the rear derailleur and put the chain on the smallest sprocket, then put the wheel back in place between the brake pads. Tighten the eccentric nut and snap the lever. If the mount is not quick-release, but on nuts, tighten them with a wrench.
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