How to install a shower cabin with your own hands
Do It Yourself Educational Program / / December 30, 2020
The installation details of different models differ. Therefore, first of all rely on the assembly instructions from the manufacturer, and consider this article as a general guide to understanding the algorithm.
1. Prepare materials
- Shower cabin;
- siphon;
- silicone sealant;
- ½ inch flexible hose;
- adjustable wrench;
- screwdriver;
- hacksaw for metal;
- bubble level;
- roulette;
- pencil.
2. Check the location of communications
To connect the shower stall, there must be hot and cold water outlets, sewerage systems, and a waterproof socket with grounding near the place of its installation. Read the instructions and make sure that all communications are at the recommended distance.
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3. Assemble the pallet
As a rule, the lower part of the shower stall is made of acrylic and is reinforced with a metal frame on adjustable legs. At the front, the structure is closed with a decorative screen, which is more convenient to install at the very end of the installation.
Assemble the frame according to the diagram. Usually this is a crosshair of two steel pipes, which are screwed to the pallet with self-tapping screws in certain places with mortgages. Use only the supplied screws, otherwise there is a risk of drilling through the bottom and ruining it. To reduce squeak, you can first apply a layer of silicone sealant to the frame.
Install studs with nuts, feet, and shield brackets at each end of the cross and in the center. First, roughly adjust the height with the nuts. Then use a bubble level to check the position of the pan and make sure it is level. If necessary, raise or lower the corners by rotating the legs, and after the adjustment is completed, fix them with lock nuts.
4. Install the siphon
Find the parts of the drain system and assemble it according to the attached instructions. Turn the pallet on its side and install the siphon. To do this, remove a part of the protective film around the drain hole, insert the siphon socket into it, after installing the gaskets. Screw on the flare nut from the back and tighten by hand.
If you are not sure about the quality of the seals, coat all joints with sealant, but keep in mind that it will be problematic to disassemble the connection later. Usually no additional sealing is required.
Try on the drain to the sewer socket, but do not connect it yet. It is more convenient to do this at the very end, after assembling the booth (when you push it into place).
5. Fit the center panel fittings
While the back panel is disassembled, it is convenient to install a shower switch, a foot massager, as well as a shelf, mirror, towel holder and other accessories that come with the kit. For details of what is attached and where, see the instructions.
Some budget models do not have a central panel, all accessories and control units are located on one of the side walls.
6. Assemble the side walls
Usually, the design of a shower stall is a frame made of an aluminum profile, where side walls are inserted and sliding glass doors are hung. Therefore, it is better to act with an assistant who will hold the walls.
The frame is assembled first. To do this, remove the film from the top of the pallet around its perimeter. Connect the profiles to each other with screws, but do not tighten completely in order to correct the position of the frame if necessary.
Place the resulting structure on a pallet and bolt. Place the silicone sealant inside the profiles and trim off the excess with a knife. Carefully insert the glass into its place and fix it in the frame with special stops.
7. Install the curtains
Sliding doors move along special grooves inside the upper and lower frame profiles. The first step is to install the elastic roller stops there. To protect against splashes, place seals on the ends of the side walls that will be in contact with the doors.
For convenience, immediately screw the handles to the curtains. According to the instructions, attach the rollers to the doors in the right places and hang the assembled structure on the frame. Check how the flaps close and, if necessary, adjust the position of the rollers.
8. Mount the ceiling panel
Remove the protective film from the top of the booth and install the rain shower head, lights, fan and other accessories. Connect all elements in the sequence described in the instructions.
Attach the panel to the frame using clamps or screws. If there is no factory seal around the perimeter of the roof, it is advisable to treat the joint with silicone before installation for better tightness.
9. Connect communications
Connect the internal routing of the shower stall hoses according to the diagram in the instructions and fix all joints with clamps. Connect the cold and hot water fittings to the corresponding terminals in the wall using flexible hoses. Tighten the flare nuts with a wrench, remembering to install the spacers.
Ensure system pressure is within manufacturer's recommendations. If the water quality is poor, install fine filters at the inlet to extend the life of the steam generator and whirlpool system.
Use a waterproof grounded outlet to connect to the mains. It is desirable that a separate line with a two-pole circuit breaker and a residual current device be laid to it.
Push the shower stall back into place and connect the siphon outlet to the drain. If the diameters do not match, use a transition collar by rubbing the edges with plumbing grease or liquid soap. When connecting the siphon with a flexible hose, shape it so that the middle part is raised and forms a water seal.
10. Secure the screen
Lastly, a decorative pallet apron is installed, which will hide the frame and all communications below.
Remove the protective film, move the screen and mark the points opposite the mounting brackets with a pencil. Drill the holes according to the marks, insert the screws into them and tighten, thereby fixing the apron. Place the decorative caps on the fasteners.
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