4 errors when lightening hair at home
Tips Educational Program / / December 19, 2019
Vic Glu
Error 1. Identify brightening and toning
The decision to become a blonde often spontaneously. The woman simply goes to the store and buy your favorite white paint. At home, she mixes something in the tube with something in the bottle, put on hair and waits. Not surprisingly, the result is different from the expectations.
Creating a blonde always occurs in two stages.
- Lightening (bleaching). It is a process that destroys the natural or artificial hair color.
- Toning. Imparting the desired shade to hair.
Clarification is made with special powder or cream and oxidant certain percentage. For example, to make dark hair lighter by 4-5 tones need oxide is not less than 6%. If the blond hair, usually using 1.5-3 percent oxidizer. But everything is very individual. Sometimes, to achieve the desired result, to brighten blondes use 6-9 percent oxide.
Result lightening always warm hue. Why is it will learn later. In the meantime, remember, between the concepts of "lightening" and "staining in blond" can not be equated. After all, you can lighten up and to create a nuclear-orange or acid green hair.
Clarification - is only the first step to Blondie. It specifies the substrate on which the color must lie.
Vic Glu, hairdresserThe result of staining is dependent on many factors: the state of hair, the initial hue and the hue and of course, the dye composition and the method of its application.
Error 2. Do not take into account the background lighting and tone level
In everyday life, people are divided into Blonde, Brown, red and dark-haired. In professional hairdressers and colorists more complicated.
Human hair is made up of the feed rod (meduly), which imparts strength and elasticity of the protective cuticle and cortex (dense set of scales on the surface).
The cortex is the melanin, which is responsible for hair color. Melanin comprises two pigment eumelanin and pheomelanin. The first has a dark tint (from brown to blue-black), and the form of elongated granules. The second is a circular molecule of yellow and red colors.
Natural hair color depends on the ratio of melanin pigments. The more eumelanin, the dark hair, and vice versa: at blondes dominated pheomelanin.
On the amount of eumelanin tone level dependent (or, as they say, the level of depth of tone).
Vic Glu, hairdresserTone Level (UT or UGT) - a natural hair color gradation in lightness.
Allocate 10 UT, where the unit - it's black and Blondie considered everything above sevens.
When the tone level is increased brightening depth and pattern seen lightening. This color, which is obtained after partial destruction of natural or artificial, if hair has been dyed, pigment.
Imagine a flask with red and yellow balls inside. The starting pitch level - 6. Brightening up to 9. In the bulb there are only yellow balls. The next step - toning, and you need to understand how to add a blue and red, the colors are mixed, and from afar looked like a beige bulb.
Vic Glu, hairdresserBefore entering blond necessary to determine tone level, the predominant pigment, and the desired result. It depends on it than clarify (powder or cream), an oxidizer percentage of use, where to begin to apply makeup and other nuances. Hairdressers make special formulas to calculate how many grams of a squeeze tube for toning specific hair.
Error 3. Do not follow the instructions
It is important to consider not only the level of tone and background clarification, but also to understand what type of structure and how to use it correctly. Lightening and coloring hair - a chemical reaction, the flow of which depends on the dye used.
All the dyes can be divided into direct and indirect.
Direct not mixed with an oxidizing agent and do not penetrate into the hair. Their molecules are deposited on the cuticle. Produced direct dyes are mainly in the form of coloring shampoos, conditioners and mousses. Also refers to the direct dye henna and crayons. They are easy to use (no need to mix anything) in the home to maintain or refresh the color.
Indirect dyes cuticle open, penetrate the hair and destroying the natural pigment, to make room for the artificial. Such dyes are always mixed with an oxidizing agent - hydrogen peroxide with various additives. Produced usually in the form of creams. Work harder (the exact proportions needed) with them.
Indirect also include dyes in which no ammonia, but its derivatives are present. They are not as pungent smell, but the operating principle is the same as that of ammonia dyes.
When working with indirect dyes is very important to choose the right percentage of an oxidizing agent. From it depends on how many will be able to rise the level of depth of tone and how to keep the structure of the hair.
Many people mistakenly think that the longer they keep the paint on the hair, the better the effect. In fact, manufacturers spend more than one clinical trial in order to calculate how much time a particular structure is needed for clarification, presentation and fixing the artificial pigment. If the package says "Hold 30 minutes" keep half an hour. Perederzhivaya paint, you just dry your hair.
Error 4. Do not care for hair
To become a luxurious blonde little to lighten. Blonde requires constant gentle care. Otherwise passed through the reaction of lightening hair hung lifeless tow.
There are no hair strength and energy, because it is dead skin appendages. Some cosmetics regenerates regenerating disulfide bonds and protein, but most of the air conditioners simply tightly closed cuticle, to reflect light. As a result, the hair look good, they are nice to touch.
The Internet weight lightening of hair folk recipes. It should be understood that the lemon juice, broth chamomile or yogurt will never make you a platinum blonde. Maximum will make blonde hair lighter than a semitone.
But natural ingredients can be used to improve the color-treated hair. Here are some good masks.
- Honey. Mix in equal parts honey, aloe juice and castor oil. Keep on hair for 30 minutes. Rinse with plenty of warm water.
- banana. Mix blender until homogeneous one medium banana, one egg, one teaspoon of honey, tablespoon burdock oil and two tablespoons fat yoghurt without additives. Keep an hour, then rinse and wash hair with shampoo.
- egg. Two tablespoons of gelatin pour warm water and let stand for 10-15 minutes to swollen gelatin. Then melt it in a water bath, add one egg yolk and a tablespoon of his hair balm. The resulting mixture was put on hair, put on plastic cap and wrap head with a towel. Keep 40-60 minutes. After the procedure, rinse hair with warm water.
Vic Glu, hairdresserBe careful with folk remedies. They may even spoil the most beautiful blond cold. "Food" on the hair will never give the same effect as a professional cosmetics. The fact that hardly do worse - vinegar (an acidic environment will smooth scales), coconut oil (but it is difficult to wash off).
In addition, you must always maintain the color of coloring shampoos and other means, which are also often contain components's Skin.
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