10 causes of blurred photos

Shutter speed too slow

This is the most common cause of blurry photos. If you think you have to stand still as a stone for half a second - simple, you are mistaken. Shooting without a tripod, adhere to the following rules:

Exposure should be equivalent to the lens focal length.

For example, if using a lens with a focal length of 60 mm, the exposure must be 1/60 second or less; with 200 mm lens recommended shutter speed - 1/200 second, and so on.

In some lenses and camera image stabilization technology originally built. This feature allows to reduce the minimum shutter speed of about three stop. Stop - is the amount of exposure, which means an increase or decrease in the amount of incoming light when shooting twice.

The slower the shutter speed, the greater the intake of light; the sooner the less.

60 mm lens with stabilizing function can withstand the shutter speed is 1/8 second.

In addition, it is important to know what your personal minimum shutter speed. Tremor in the hands are at all - someone more, someone less. To find out, at any shutter speed you start "motion blur", perform an experiment. Set the camera's shutter speed priority mode, and shoot the same shot first with a 1/500 shutter speed, then decelerates it. Unload picture in the computer and determine when a hand shake shutter speed becomes

blur pictures.

The lack of a tripod

Tripod or monopod also gets rid of the "motion blur". In which cases can you need to use a tripod?

1. When there is an opportunity not to shoot with it.
2. When it is impossible to use a faster shutter speed (for example, due to poor lighting).
3. When you need a slow shutter speed (for example to blur something in the frame).

When using the tripod image stabilization switch off, since it may interfere. But do not forget to include it, when again will take the camera in hand.

incorrect posture

, Learn how to properly stand and hold the camera so as not to lose the rare footage from their blurring.

Hold fast on his feet, one of them a little expose forward, though a step. Because of this you will be able, on the spot, to shift the body to the right and left, and back and forth.

Hold the camera with your right hand and the left bottom support the lens. At the same time try to press your elbows close to your chest.

Use the viewfinder instead of the screen. Then the person will be an additional point of support for your camera.

These are the basic rules. But there are photographers, who go even further. They listen to your breath and press the shutter button at the moment between inhalation and exhalation.

Too large aperture

The aperture value also affects the sharpness of the picture, as it determines the depth.

depth of field - the distance between the object passed in the picture dramatically.

When the lens is focused, it does so at a certain distance - the so-called focus plane. For example, if you are focused at a distance of 4.5 meters, everything that is in the frame at this distance, will have a maximum sharpness. All that is significantly closer or farther away will be blurry. How pronounced this effect depends on the diaphragm.

In general the aperture (F / 2.8) depth of field is very small. This effect is emphasized long lenses. If you use a telephoto lens and aperture F / 2.8, the focus will be only a narrow strip of pictures. A smaller aperture (e.g., F / 11 and F / 18) will increase the depth of field.

But the choice of the aperture width depends on what kind of picture you want. So to get the most dramatic photos, use a small aperture with a large number of F. But remember: Using a small aperture to compensate for the loss of light, it is necessary to slow shutter speed. So, once again becomes relevant first paragraph.

autofocus

You have bad eyesight? Wear glasses? Then you should use the autofocus. Modern cameras are really smart in many models of auto-focus function perfectly realized - just let her do what she can.

To adjust the focus for your eyes, use the diopter.

Diopter - a device (usually a wheel) beside the viewfinder allowing to adjust image sharpness.

Diopter partly solve the problem and if you have poor eyesight, but for whatever reason you do not wear glasses.

wrong focus

Let's say your lens is properly configured, the camera is fixed on a tripod, you are shooting on a sunny day, use a small aperture and fast shutter speed with low ISO. BUT! All this will not save on the turbidity of the pictures, if you properly focused. This is particularly critical when using a large aperture, the depth of field making thick with a razor blade. Even a small miscalculation when focusing can "throw" the object of shooting out of focus areas. It may also happen that you get a portrait accented with ears and bleary-eyed.

Photographers often put in their cells the option to automatically select the AF frame. This setting allows the camera to decide for itself what part of the picture should be in focus. Most modern cameras coping well with it. Especially if the subject is in the frame strongly stands. However, when the composition is more complex, technology can make a mistake and not to focus where you want. To determine the focus point yourself, move the AF point in the same mode.

Look through the viewfinder, you should see an array of small dots (in the case of the screen - squares) - this is the point of focus. They show where the camera can focus. Using a single point mode, you can use the control buttons to focus the camera precisely at the point that you need.

Many people know that the camera focuses on the need to press the shutter button halfway. And then, be sure to choose the desired focus object, you can press the shutter button fully and take a picture. This is a good solution. The problem is that the shutter button can be quite sensitive. Nazhmosh weak - can not work, will have to refocus again. Nazhmosh too - make the frame before the focus will be debugged. In addition, if the photographer makes several consecutive shots, the camera will try to focus in front of each of them. That is why some photographers prefer to focus back button.

Focus button back (back-button focusing) - this autofocus control method, in which it is not activated by the shutter button, and a separate button on the camera back.

This button can be called AF-ON or simply Fn. It can be activated by default, or it must be done via the camera menu. After pressing this button, your camera will focus and will not try to refocus, until you click on it again. This allows you to change the composition and make different pictures of the same object - the camera will not lose focus whenever you release the shutter.

Wrong focus mode

There are three basic modes of auto focus, they equipped the majority of cameras:

1. AF-S - the focus of one frame is used when the subject is not moving.
2. AF-C - long auto focus, designed to track the movement through the frame, and is used when moving the subject.
3. AF-A - Auto Mode (often is the default), in which the camera itself determines which of the two previous modes of use.

Inability to use the manual focus

Despite the obvious advantages of autofocus, sometimes it is necessary to resort to manual focus. For example, when shooting on a tripod and use a wide aperture in order to achieve shallow depth of field, and want to make sure that the key of the frame in the field, then switch to manual focus. Zoom button at the same time will allow you to adjust the focus, zoom in on 5-10.

Dirty lens and filters

If your lens spot, do not wait for a clear picture. Cheap plastic filters front of the lens also degrade image quality. If you take a picture with poor UV filter (UV), try to make some shots without it and understand how it negatively affects the image.

low-quality lens

Novice photographers who sin blurry images, it is often blamed on a bad lens. In fact, this is the last of the causes of "motion blur". But the object lens is still discord.

Lens quality - these are materials + internal structure. Inside the lens consists of several lenses precisely aligned, allowing focus, zoom the image, as well as to correct optical aberrations.

Some lenses really sharper others. Some excellent job with sharpness in the center of the frame (but not on the corners and edges), others give a clear picture only for a certain aperture, the third cause color fringing around contrast points.

In other words, each object has a unique character and with one type of work to cope well with others - no. Also, any lens has the aperture in which it works well. As a rule, it is in the area of ​​F / 8 or F / 11.

For images with maximum sharpness is better to use lenses with a fixed focal length. Carry two or three lenses costly. But even the most simple and cheap fix lens can produce stunning results when used wisely.

You know the secrets of other great pictures of field? Share them in the comments!