How to install interior doors

Be patient, clearly follow our step by step instructions and all the necessary work.

There are a variety of installation options, depending on the approach of the master and the available tools at hand. We consider one of the simplest methods without the use of special equipment, which is available to everyone.

1. Prepare tools and materials

• Door leaf and frame.
• Architrave and final assembly bracket.
• Universal loop butterfly, handle and lock.
• Saw, screwdriver and drill bits.
• Pencil, awl and knife.
• A chisel and a hammer.
• Level, measuring tape and wedges.
• Screws, nails, polyurethane foam.

2. Remove the old door

If you put a new door, and not replacing the old - go to the next step.

Remove the blade from its hinges, disassemble the door frame. Clean the doorway from the remnants of plaster and other debris.

3. Choose the size of the new fabric

This is necessary so as not to have to bother with zauzhivaniem or, on the contrary, the expansion of the opening. Standard sizes of doors - 2 m in height and 60, 70, 80 or 90 cm wide. The double doors are usually combined of the two paintings. For example, 120 cm - is 60 + 60.

Since the fabric is installed in the door frame, so even with the clearance for foam, aperture should be slightly more. Typically, 8-10 cm. This includes the thickness of the frame, and all the necessary clearances.

• Measure the width of the opening and select the fabric 8-10 cm already.
• Measure the height of the opening of the finished floor and make sure that it is more the door height by 6-9 cm.
• Measurements conducted in several areas and take into account is the lower result. For example, if the aperture width at the bottom is 89 cm, between - 91 cm and above - 90 cm, should be considered equal to 89 cm width.

4. Decide on the opening side and the hinge

If the blade is installed flush with the wall of the hallway, and then it will open the passage. If the wall in the room - the door will open there. Think how convenient, and keep in mind this point.

To open the right loop must be hung from the right side, and opening to the left - the left. To avoid mistakes, stand in front of doors and imagine that opens it for themselves. If it is glass, the matte side of it should be directed to the corridor, and glossy - in the room.

5. Unpack the door

Remove the packaging by hand or carefully open the foil with a knife. Cut not on the front and on the back surface so as not to damage the coating. Leave one side of the cardboard boxes: it will serve and protect the lining fabric face from scratches during operation.

6. Hook the loop

If you are installing the door for the first time, make better use of loop-butterfly. They are versatile and suitable for both right- and left-hand hinge. But most importantly, they do not need to cut into the box, making it easy for non-professionals.

• Place the door on the front edge facing you, placing a piece of cardboard.
• Measure from the edge of the blade 250 mm and make a pencil mark - it will be the center of the loop.
• Attach the closed loop to the web with the side where the openings of the small chamfering.
• To clarify the place screwing screws with an awl mark the centers and carefully drill a hole with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm.
• Screw one of the screws. It will lock loop and facilitate counting.
• Note so all the holes and tighten the screws.
• Remember: a small part of the hinge is attached to the blade, and large - to the door frame.
• Repeat the same procedure for the second loop.

7. Embed the castle

• Turn the cloth so that the hinges were on the floor, and the opposite side, where there will be lock - at the top.
• Align lock - at the center of the door. Square hole under the handle must be on top and the chamfered portion of the latch is directed towards closing. If necessary, turn the tongue easily, simply by pulling the fingers.
• Measure the length and width of the mounting strap lock and door thickness. Make the layout and position the bar exactly in the center of the web.
• Expand the reverse side of the lock and attach to the door. Mark the location of the center of mounting holes, drill, screw the screws.
• Circle the bar along the contour of a pencil and carefully cut the tape with a sharp knife to clearly identify the boundaries of the sample for the installation and does not damage the edge.
• Remove the lock and separate the film from the slotted blade chisel.
• Attach the mechanism to the door, aligning it with the planned destination location, and mark the width of the hull. Measure the thickness of the lock at the widest point and put a mark on the web.
• Draw the bounding line of 2 mm from the edges of the groove on both sides.
• 6-7 mm diameter drill holes make the contour of the sample by the lock mechanism. To use the maximum area, locate the holes in a staggered manner. Proceed carefully and do not extend beyond the boundaries of the markup.
• Slowly cut the wood chisel reamed and then align the edges of the groove to lock freely entered, but not loose.
• Gradually remove the wood chisel to drown flush mounting bracket with the web. Check by applying the reverse side of the lock, rather than inserting it in place - otherwise hard to reach.
• Attach a locking side and mark with a pencil square opening for a handle stem. Make markings on both sides and do not forget that this figure should be on top, not the bottom, when the door is installed.
• Insert inside slot piece of wood as the drill backup and 20 mm in diameter make a hole the one and then the other.
• Install lock into place and secure with screws, pre-drill holes for them.

8. Assemble the door frame

• Put the side racks of the door frame at the edges of the cloth, so as not to confuse them. They should be turned a quarter to the side door hinge. That is, you have to see the seals.
• Calculate the height of the rack for proper trim. It consists of a leaf size (2,000 mm) clearance between the box and the door (3 mm), the thickness of the frame (22-25 mm) and a gap between the door and the floor (8-22 mm). The lower threshold is only in bathrooms, in other cases, left a gap for carpets and other coverages.
• Calculate the width of the crossbar of the door frame. To this, add to the width of the door leaf 6 mm, turned out to result in a gap of 3 mm on each side.
• Carefully cut all the strips to size. Better cross-cut saw, but it is possible and a hacksaw with a fine tooth.
• Remove the quarter on the side racks to dock with the top bar. To do this, slide the seals to the side, make cuts saw, and then chip disturbing pieces of a chisel. As a template for more accuracy, use crop box.
• Cut the rubber seals on the lateral uprights 45 degrees to avoid the unattractive slots after assembly.
• Fold the strips of the frame together, align the edges and fasten with screws. Pre-do the holes for screws and screw in each rack by two pieces. Use the trim box for accurate marking.

9. Hang the web to the door frame

• Place the door frame on the floor and gently lay in her web. Be perimeter pieces 3 mm thick fiberboard to form a uniform gap.
• Note the frame with a pencil top of each loop.
• Remove the screws from the side of the rack and the "open" it hinges upwards. To the blade is not dropped by placing it on top of the box and trim the bottom.
• Align the top of the loop with a label on the frame and mark the centers awl holes for screws. Screw screws previously drilled holes for fasteners.
• Repeat for the second loop and fix it.
• "Close" box and reassemble it, attach with screws to the top bracket.

10. Install the box with a cloth in the doorway

• Lift the hinged door and plug in the doorway. Align the blade of the plane to the wall using wedges as spacers. You can buy them or to saw your own. The small gap insert one wedge at large - two by deploying them towards each other. This need for precision adjustment.
• First, align the stand to the hinges, then the other. Apply level and the sinking or push the door to get a strictly vertical position. If the wall is filled up, the web will still need to put on a level that it is easy to close and open.
• Using pieces of chipboard or other patterns, set 3 mm gaps in the perimeter between the door and the door frame. Set them against each other. This will avoid frame deformation during hardening foam.
• Attach a level to the edge of a door or two pieces of MDF and make sure that the door is standing vertically.
• Fill in the gaps with foam between the door frame and the wall, starting from the bottom and moving up. Use a good quality foam with a small coefficient of expansion, so that it is not deformed the box, frozen and an increase in volume.
• If the gap is large, such as over the top bar, then gradually fill the space, moving the gun snake up and down. Not stuffed foam flush with the wall - better leave a small space, the composition will fill it after hardening.

11. Please check your installation

• Not earlier than one day cut off the protruding mounting foam. Check freezing easy: it will be very tight, and it will be seen that the material is homogeneous with respect to the cut piece.
• Carefully remove fiberboard and wedges. Check all the gaps - they should be the same. As well as the installation is correct: when you open the fabric remains in the same position without moving in different directions.

12. Mount the handles and mating lock bar

• COMPLETE Allen, loosen the locking screws on the bottom of both handles and insert the square rod up to the stop. Attach the assembly to the door. The distance between the arms to be less than the thickness of the web. If it is more than a little to shorten the rod hacksaw or grinder.
• Remove the decorative rosettes with knobs by unscrewing them counter-clockwise thread. Insert the handle in their place so that the locking screw has appeared at the bottom, and mark with a pencil the place for fastening. Drill the holes and screw in the screws. Install decorative rosettes in place.
• Cover the door and mark with a pencil on the box top and bottom latches. Measure the distance from the edge of the web to the outside of the tongue. Note the size of the frame and draw a line to mark the boundaries of the latches.
• Turn the mounting plate upside down and align its center tab label. Drill the holes and screw the screws to secure the rail to the frame. Circle the contours of a pencil and cut with a sharp knife tape, as they have done with the lock.
• Remove the bar and take a small drill holes along the contour of the future of the groove under the latch and chisel - sample. It does not matter if the sample will protrude slightly beyond the mark, after installing all the gaps overlap strips.
• Chisel, carefully remove the tape on the outer contour of the mating strips to drown it flush with the door frame. Secure the strap in place with screws. Check if everything is correct, closed door is not loose.

13. Install flashings strips

They are mounted to the side of the room, where the width of the door frame stands does not allow cover the entire thickness of the opening. Final assembly strips are inserted into the frame and fixed to the wall on the foam, and then they nailed trim.

If you frame thickness coincides with the size of the doorway, skip to the next step.

• Cut and chip chisel protruding frame on the sides of the pieces so that they do not interfere. Remove remnants of foam along the perimeter of the door frame.
• Measure the width of the opening and cut upper strap dobornye appropriate size. Attach it to the right place, and if it is in favor of the border of the opening, mark with a pencil and remove any excess. Insert transoms clipped in the box, align and fix with wedges on the side.
• In the same manner, measure, cut and adjust the final assembly of the side rail. Set them in place and align.
• Apply a continuous strip of foam at the joint transoms to a door frame at the top and on the sides. At the outer edge of the plank Overhead panels fill the joint with the wall in small strips. Do not fill the entire space of the foam, otherwise it expands and deforms the transoms.

14. tamp trim

• Cut with a sharp knife projecting beyond the plane of the door frame foam.
• Attach the casing to the frame on the hinge side close to him and see what turns the gap to the inner edge of the box. The same distance need to stand around the perimeter of the other frames.
• The joints of the upper and side panels casings can be done at 45 or 90 degrees. If not at hand miter saw and you install the door for the first time - it is better to stay on the second option. It is much easier.
• Replace the side bar, pinning her to the hinges, nails and nail in increments of 20-25 cm. Not hammer them through and make sure not to pre clypeus drill hole of smaller diameter than the nail.
• Apply a second side bar and to bear the necessary clearance, make a pencil mark and cut the excess to the desired length. Nail jamb studs as the previous one.
• Try on the top bar, cut it to size and secure. Important! It must not lie on the side, and in between. In this case, the cut end of the upper casing will be hidden.
• The same principle tamp trim on the other side of the door. If installed flashings strips, then dub the edge trims on them. If transoms not expose the same gap around the perimeter of the door frame as the opposite side.